We paddled out in the dark this morning. The days are getting shorter and shorter because a week ago, it was a lot more lighted at this time.
Rio san riding into the golden sunrise.
I still can’t believe we went to the same high school at the same time. Such a small world with big coincidences. And all these years later, we are surfing together!
Everyday is a learning experience and everyday is a better photo.
A perfect bottom turn on the biggest set of the day.
Round 2 at Diamond Head. Much better than yesterday according to the locals. One of the guys asked me how long I was surfing out there. I did the math in my head and it turns out I’ve been surfing Diamond Head for the past 40 years. That’s crazy!
The end of the ride as me and the birds watching the action. Smaller waves tomorrow but excellent conditions. Goodnight…
