Leave and Appreciate

97

It was a very beautiful morning again.  Rio-san on more amazing rides!  This is the best way to start off a day here in Hawaii.  

We’ve been experimenting with 8’0’s and 7’6’s.  These surfboards are made for big waves and don’t turn that easily, but the girls are turning them pretty easily.  

You have to have a lot of power and proper technique to be able to put a big board on the rail like this.  It doesn’t get any better than this.

Round 2 at Diamond Head.  This is a very hard spot to surf and the only way you will figure this wave out is by experience.  The more you surf it, the more you will learn.  I’ve been surfing out there for 40 years and still learning.  

I saw a surfer walk up the cliff with his backpack, surfboard, and a big cut on his left elbow.  It was bleeding a lot and hope he was ok.

My little Princess is exploring mainland America.  She is learning so many things about life and nature.  She’s been sending me photos of things you will never see here in Hawaii.  A wild rabbit?  Cool!

She said there are wild berries everywhere.  OMG, these berries are very expensive at a Whole Foods here in Hawaii.

So she picked some wild blueberries, and decided to bake something.

It’s cool how kids can travel and learn such things.  I’ve always encouraged kids to leave Hawaii so they can really appreciate Hawaii.  My little Princess is learning that right now and I’m so happy for that.

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide