Enjoy the Process

57

Light winds this morning so perfect conditions.  Everybody was expecting the waves to be smaller than yesterday but once again, everybody was wrong.  It was bigger, cleaner, and a lot less surfers.

Went surfing with the 3 girls and they were helping each other, cheering for each other, and having a wonderful morning.  Rio-san told me that she caught the best wave of her life today.  Stoked!

So cool to see the girls coaching the girls.  All of them know the process and when they can help each other, the process is much faster.

The process is speeding up now as the surfboard is moving the way it should.  Pushing off the back foot and surfing off the rail, just like this.

Then you can go higher up on the wave and do nice turns like this.  It feels amazing.

Between the 4 of us, we probably tried over 8 different boards this week.  From the start, they could instantly connect, surf it good, and be comfortable.  I’m wondering what they want to ride tomorrow?

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide