Early morning was good. Just the Uncles enjoying this beautiful Sunday morning.
Back on the 6’4 and catching every wave.
Super clean conditions if you caught the right wave.
Successful landing of the late drop.
Imagine never touching a surfboard in your whole life. Then come to Hawaii and start surfing on a 11’0 longboard. Practicing throughout the years and working your way down to a shortboard. Surfing Bowls and learning mannerism, respect, and surf etiquette. Then today, the best wave of the day comes right to you, you take off, turn left, and ride it perfectly. Then you paddle back out and all the local boys are clapping for you. It was a special moment. It was real. And it was amazing! One of the local Uncles said “she went from zero to hero!” Congratulations girl!
Last, Jeannie and the rainbow…
