Screaming Joyful Day

34

This morning was still good!  It’s been weeks of every morning swell and perfect conditions.  Ray on a beautiful wave.

The girls love their big boards and are practicing to make it perfect.  All I hear is “I want to surf bigger and bigger waves!”  Their adrenaline is pumping!

Look how beautiful it was.  John caught this set and I had to stop to watch.

The more I surf these kind of waves, the less I want to travel and search for these kind of waves.  This is 10 minutes from my house!

The girls and boys wanted more so we went for Round 2.  And guess what?  It was much better than the morning!  Once again, the high tide made the waves longer and more perfect.

Jumping on the 7’6 and feeling very comfortable.

Then I give her my longboard to see how she will preform on the very next wave.  Fully connected and fully driven.

Dove Wetsuits Japan sent us some new gear to test.  This long sleeve rash guard with hood and visor is the BEST!  It not only looks cool, it keeps you cool!  I can’t wait to try mine.

Came home and got to watch the last few minutes of Seth’s heat in Fiji.  In those few minutes, he got 2 barrels that was enough to go from 2nd to 1st.  I was screaming of joy!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide