i enjoyed this last day of 2011 and will enjoy it till the last second. it’s only 8pm but my eyes are closing. ever since they made fireworks illegal, it’s been really quite at night. instead of partying all night long, hanging in a club with a drink during countdown, and getting crazy with all the night people, this year, i’m doing things different. i’m going to settle down, i’m going to wake up early, and i’m going to maximize every second of the first day of 2012. and every day after that! i’m super excited to enter another great year! be back tomorrow bright and early!
had a fun time surfing with kaneko-san and rei. it was their first time to the north shore. cool father and son surfer combination. round 1 haleiwa, round 2 rocky point, round 3 kahuku shrimp, round 4 haleiwa. the waves were perfect all day long!!!
rei is 12 years old. it was only his 5th time surfing. this kid is good! he has sense and flows with the ocean. i pushed him into a few waves at haleiwa and next thing you know, he was surfing all by himself. i asked him if he wanted to try by himself and he said yes. so i waited on the beach as he paddled out, turned around, and caught a long wave. i was super stoked to see the smile on this kids face.
rocky point was going off! 10 years ago, there would be 40 photographers standing right here shooting all the top professional surfers. now days, there are hardly any photographers. it felt weird and lonely.
