No Parking Surf

57

Arrived to the beach before 6am and the parking lot was FULL!  There was a swimming event happening, and also the hotel strike.  Luckily we got the last available parking space.

I saw a bunch of local surfers frantically trying to find parking.  It was then that I realized that the faster we got out, the more waves we would get.

Bowls was almost flat so we went to this spot which is normally crowded with locals.  Not this morning.  Just a couple of Uncles sharing waves with us.

I told this girl, “ok, it won’t be long until everyone comes out so get as many waves as possible.”

Beautiful rides on this beautiful Monday morning.

In 40 minutes, she caught 9 waves and it was time to go in.  Super content and so happy!

Then we went to drive to Sandy Beach checking out the waves along the way.  Pretty windy but still fun if you’re up for the challenge.

On our recent dive trip, I didn’t take my camera because I wanted to fully connect to the ocean, the moment, and focus on one thing, which was to hunt..  Luckily Kimo had his so he captured the moments.

It’s been a while since I shot a fish in the deep blue so it felt very rewarding.  Seeing all the sharks chasing the fish away and clearly dominating the ocean, it felt good to shoot a fish, protect it, and get it in the cooler.  It wasn’t easy to do.

Back to today.  We headed to the cliff to jump into the ocean and refresh.  Once you hit the water, you feel reborn again…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide