Go with the FLOW

22

It was one of the most clearest mornings this year.  We are going into winter so this was the first time the ocean was very calm.  Looking out to the horizon, you could see the islands of Molokai and Lanai very clearly.  

Every time I see Molokai, I miss it more.  I know it’s a very close boat ride for me, but the waves have to be flat for me to go and that wasn’t the case today.  

North shore was going to be crowded and so was Diamond Head, so we drove over to the East side and found some perfect head high swells with only 2 other guys out.  It was like a dream session for the girls.  

The reason nobody surfs here is because you have to climb up these sharp rocks and bushes to exit the ocean.  Most surfers fail and never come back.  I taught the girls and they figured it out after freaking out.  Haha.

Round 2 was much easier.  Surfing Bowls with Hashimoto san and watching him ride over 20 waves.  

Watching him doing cutback after cutback making this muscle memory.  Big muscle memory for him.  

The girls catching every wave like usual.  Riding the right boards on the right waves, you can’t go wrong.

Flow.  That was the theme for today.  Go with the FLOW, just like this…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide