The Hot and Happy Lottery

16

Early morning at Bowls as we went out to get photos of happy surfing!  Passed by Kaiwi as this has been her beach for the past few weeks.

The waves were so fun!  The most perfect conditions of the whole summer.  Hashimoto-san dreams of sessions like this.  Look at the smile.

A new magic Trinx that will make any surfer happy like this.

The cutbacks looking better and better each day.

I let Mighty Mouse ride my magic Tokoro today and she was loving it.

Being able to surf every single day is a blessing.  We are all so grateful to experience amazing feelings like this.

We went back in the afternoon and Kaiwi was still sleeping on the beach.  As I passed her and looked out to the lineup, there was nobody there???

This photo sums up our day.  Round 2 absolutely nobody at Bowls as the wind just started to clean up the conditions.  We had it for 2 hours taking turns on the chest high perfect lefts that kept on coming and coming.  These are the days that make you feel like you won the lottery!  It was a hot and happy day!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide