The trade winds came back but were very light. That made the conditions absolutely perfect all day long.
Ogura-san was a little nervous before we paddled out this morning but soon after this first beautiful ride, the nervousness turned into happiness.
I think she caught over 20 long rides this morning. She wanted to surf waist high waves so I told her it was waist high today. I lied. Haha.
Each wave Ogura-san’s surfing was getting better and better. Then the photos started to really bring out how happy she was. This is how everybody should be enjoying the ocean…
Round 2 we went out practicing the cutback. Perfect waves and seemed like it was getting bigger.
I don’t know anywhere else in the world where you can surf perfect off shore waves like this everyday. Uncrowded, warm water, easy access, and as blue you will ever see.
Riding a longer board and waiting way outside for the set of the day. This is how you do it!
After all these years, I can no longer ride in front of Hashimoto-san anymore. His surfing level got so high that I will only be in his way.
So I shoot photos from behind and try to keep up with his speed.
Then I wait for this cutback! We spent a week working on this maneuver so we can get a good photo. This is it!