This is it: The Cutback

23

The trade winds came back but were very light.  That made the conditions absolutely perfect all day long.

Ogura-san was a little nervous before we paddled out this morning but soon after this first beautiful ride, the nervousness turned into happiness.

I think she caught over 20 long rides this morning.  She wanted to surf waist high waves so I told her it was waist high today.  I lied.  Haha.  

Each wave Ogura-san’s surfing was getting better and better.  Then the photos started to really bring out how happy she was.  This is how everybody should be enjoying the ocean…

Round 2 we went out practicing the cutback.  Perfect waves and seemed like it was getting bigger.  

I don’t know anywhere else in the world where you can surf perfect off shore waves like this everyday.  Uncrowded, warm water, easy access, and as blue you will ever see.  

Riding a longer board and waiting way outside for the set of the day.  This is how you do it!

After all these years, I can no longer ride in front of Hashimoto-san anymore.  His surfing level got so high that I will only be in his way.  

So I shoot photos from behind and try to keep up with his speed.  

Then I wait for this cutback!  We spent a week working on this maneuver so we can get a good photo.  This is it!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide