up until a few years ago, i use to look forward to the new years countdown. usually late night partying somewhere and getting stupid. now, things are different. i’m either getting old, or i don’t want to waste my precious mornings. or both. i sleep on the last day of 2011 at 10pm, i wake up at 4am, by 6am, i’m paddling out to a secret spot in the dark, catching a few waves by feel, and watching the sun peak over the horizon, where else in the world would you want to be? you feel free, nobody is around, it’s just you and nature. i surf for an hour, and as i drive home, i’m watching the drunk people walking on the streets, or driving like drunks. it’s not a place where i want to be anymore. i’m glad i finally grew up.
the first wave of the year always dictates what’s to come. when i stood up, i felt fresh, i felt happy, and i felt like i’m ready for a great year of waves. it’s time to put the past behind and live in the future. things can only get better!
welcome to 2012!