Bye Bye Cloud Nine

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The crowd at Bowls has been intense.  If you’re not from here, you most likely won’t get a wave.  There just isn’t enough for everyone.  From left to right, there was Eddie, Bob, Stu, Carter, Ray, Uncle Barry, Bruce, Troy, Lance, and John.  And next to me were 10 other locals.  And inside of us were 10 more.  If you’re a visitor, today wasn’t your lucky day.  

Uncle Barry got one of the best rights of the morning.  

I was paddling out and couldn’t help but get the shot.  Uncle Barry’s finger was almost touching my camera lens.  It doesn’t get any closer than this.

The Uncles continue to inspire me.  I want to surf forever too!  

I just watched a video of Sarigao Island in the Philippines today.  I couldn’t believe this is Cloud 9!!!  What happened???  There were hundreds of people in the lineup???  I first went there over 20 years ago and there was nobody.  Now there are thousands of surfers, too many surf camps, expensive beers, and just way too many distractions.  I fell in love with Sarigao before because it was so natural, so distant, and so peaceful.  Never again…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide