Before Dawn Patrol

6

It’s been a while since we paddled out in the total pitch dark.  I couldn’t see anything when we got out to the lineup.  It was just by sound and feel.  

Daisuke-san was hearing and feeling it.  He caught some waves in the pitch dark.  He’s such a good surfer and a really nice guy.  

He caught so many perfect lefts.  I rode behind him on a few cheering him on.  

Another one all to himself.  Daisuke-san rode 5 perfect sets from start to finish.  I told him yesterday “if you get a set at Bowls, please don’t fall because everybody is watching you.”  And he didn’t fall once!  He was ripping!  

Riding good waves and paddling out with the biggest smile on his face.  This is surfing.

The fish were swimming under us all morning long.

Today was the least crowded of the whole week, and also the best waves of the whole week.  We scored!  Round 2 I went back out after lunch with a special guest.  I forgot to ask her if I can post her photo so better not for now.  But she got some really good waves and did great.  It was her first time surfing and probably not her last.  A new surfer girl is born?  

Round 3 with Dr. Ryu-san.  Fresh off the airplane as we surfed until the sun set.  He was so happy after riding his first wave.  I’ll post more tomorrow but I just wanted to say for now, “OMG, nice Dove wetsuit!  I love the colors!!!”

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide