East, Malasada, Waiola, Traffic, and Makapuu Live

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i had an awesome day with Jiro-san and Yoko-san yesterday. we surfed for 3 hours, ate pho, drove around the east side, passed by sandy beach, makapuu, kailua, ate malasadas, and ate waiola shave ice. i gained another 6 lbs. haha.

every single beach, every single park, and every single road was packed. i haven’t seen so many people enjoying the outdoors in one single day. even private beaches like his were packed!!!

why didn’t anybody tell me about the east swell??? it was as perfect as it gets! this was waikiki on the east side.

there were these 2 guys jamming live music on the side of the road overlooking the beach. i pulled over and listened for a while. i felt like grabbing a cold beer and sitting there all day long. this is hawaii and i love the culture here!
To Jiro-san and Yoko-san,
You both surfed really good yesterday.
I’m glad you enjoyed the waves as much as I did.
Please enjoy the rest of your vacation in Hawaii and Keep On Surfing!
And to Magami-san in Kugunuma, thank you for introducing me to such a wonderful couple.
Aloha,
Kirby

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide