What Swell?

12

Another early morning as we were the first guys out.  If you look good, you can see Ryu-san surfing right pass me.  We were surfing under the stars appreciating life the way life supposed to be appreciated.  

As the sky turned color, so did the ocean surface.  It looked like oil!  Ryu-san connecting to the magic board.

The waves were small but big enough to make someone stoked.  We had a blast!  

Since the waves were small, Daisuke-san wanted to do something different.  And since it’s his first time to Hawaii, why not take him to the underwater world?  It was his first time snorkeling so when he first jumped in, I could hear him say “WOW” out of his snorkel.  Haha.  

No wetsuit, no weight belt, this is free diving!  We saw turtles, lots of fish, shells, and it was the best place to be this afternoon.  

By the end of our dive session, Daisuke-san was going deep!  He figured out how to clear his ears, keep calm, and all this on his very first free dive experience.  Cool!  

It was also his first time on a boat so he was so happy!  First time experiences should always done the right way.  

As we came back in and passed Bowls, it was totally flat!!!  Where is that swell that was supposed to be 5-7′ by this afternoon???

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide