Yesterday morning was so amazing. I started paddling out but turned around to grab my camera because I knew it was going to be a special sunrise. The sky was starting to look like fire!
I was waiting in the inside for anyone to catch a wave and Kyle was the one. An epic morning to remember.
This morning was normal. Still nice cloud formation but nothing like yesterday.
Mika Akima getting on an early one.
This morning had the most surfers I’ve seen in a very long time. Everybody was very hungry and no wave went to waste. Sometimes 2 or 3 guys per wave. It was pretty crazy.
Went back for an evening session with Miho-san. OMG, she got so good!!! Super calm and comfortable.
Walking the board and looking very confident.
We surfed into the sunset. And so did a hundred other surfers. It was so crowded but nobody bothered us.
Miho-san told me she caught a months worth of waves this evening. Tomorrow let’s go get another months worth of waves!
