Foil Fever is Back!

10

Another beautiful morning out at Bowls.  Just the Uncles out having a great Saturday morning.  When I pulled up to the beach, I couldn’t wait to paddle out!!!

Surprisingly, the waves were much bigger and better than yesterday.  Nobody was expecting this.  

Yesterday I tired out after pumping into 2 waves.  I almost felt like I was going to get a heart attack.  Today I could pump into 4 waves and felt good.  Foiling is the best cardio exercise you can ever experience.  Nothing else will get my heart pumping that fast.  

This is like a foilers dream.  The feeling of being so connected to the ocean and your foil is amazing.  Then to be able to surf the waves like a surfboard makes it exciting.  I still think a chest high wave on a foil feels like a 10′ wave on a surfboard.  That’s how fast and wild it feels.  Winter is here and foil fever is back!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide