Locked and Loaded

5

You can tell when the winter season has officially started because of the weather.  No winds all this week, cloudless mornings, and the weather is changing.  I hope there will be a lot more no wind days like today because that’s the surfers dream.  Check out Abe-san surfing under the stars with the first light starting to show.

Surprisingly, the waves were much bigger than yesterday.  Only a few locals out this morning and it was fun!  Abe-san caught so many good and long rides.  

The conditions were smooth like a morning in Indonesia.  Magic board and good surfer results in good rides and big smiles.  

The water at Bowls is usually dirty but today was the cleanest it will ever get.  After seeing this, I came in, texted the boys, and made a plan for tomorrow.  

I went to the dive shop and had another custom rubber made.  I’ve been using only 2 rubbers until now but tomorrow will be the start of 3 rubbers.  Hopefully that results in stronger power and longer distance.  That fish that sometimes gets away will hopefully not get away anymore.

I can’t wait to use this.  The plan is to hunt big pelagic fish in the deep blue sea.  I hope I can sleep tonight because I’m pretty excited!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide