Wow, no expectations this morning as we all thought the waves were going to be flat. Wrong again! Bigger than yesterday and only a few surfers out. Guess who this is taking off?
Yes, smiling Malcom! 
Look how epic the waves were. It’s even better when you go out expecting nothing and there is something. It’s days like this we surfer live for. 
I’m training this girl to be great at surfing. From a beginner just a few years ago, now she’s feeling the flow and power. 
This was one of the biggest sets of the day. It wasn’t long ago when I was pushing her into waves. Now she can paddle hard and ride the sets on her own. 
And the crazy thing is she’s only going to get better and better. Great surfing today girl!
