Bad News Bears

21

I was so excited this morning to go to the North Shore.  A nice 8′ swell on the way.  I was so excited that I left my house too early.  So I had to wait in the dark until they opened the gates.  

First check was Haleiwa.  I wanted to surf somewhere bigger so I got back in the car and drove an hour looking all around the North shore.  Then as I passed Sunset Beach, I saw a 8′ set break so I knew the swell was here.  

Made a U-Turn and headed back to Haleiwa.  Grabbed my 5’11 and ran out for a surf.  My board was way too small but I wanted to see if it could handle the power.  And it handled really good!  It felt so good riding big powerful waves again!  

Thought something looked a little different.  

What happened to the coconut trees???  OMG, did the Coconut Rhinoceros Beetle do this?  Seems like it did.  

All the trees marked with green paint will be cut down all the way to the bottom.  That means practically all the trees at Haleiwa.  Bummer.

Came home and the kids were waiting for me.  Yes I wanted to take a nap but can’t say no to 3 cute kids wanting to come over and play.  

Then we went to watch Keahi and Honouliwai’s baseball game.  OMG, these kids are so cute!  Thanks to Shohei Ohtani, every kid in America wants to play baseball now.

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide