A Day in Taiwan

5

Let’s go back to yesterday.  Started off with surfing some perfect waves with nobody out.  The swell is still here!  It was just us in the morning scoring this epic lineup.  Yes it looks pretty, but it’s very shallow and dangerously breaking right in front of sharp rocks.  I’m just glad nobody got hurt.

Back to our place.  We are the only guests staying in this big 2 story hotel.  There is 4 staff catering to all our needs.  Feeling special.

This is the breakfast that is included.  Healthy and happy food!  

Then we drove around looking for shells and found this cool bridge.  Over 3000 steps we took to finish this course but we made it.  

After surfing these past 2 days, I told Kimura-san that he was probably the oldest surfer to ever surf that dangerous surf spot.  And now he’s probably the oldest surfer to sit on a kids ride.  And maybe I’m the second oldest?  Haha.

We found a town next to a fishing port that has some good restaurants.  Tried this one out for dinner and it was amazing!

This seafood salad was my favorite.  

Kimura-san was trying to watch the Japan vs. China soccer game last night on his iPhone.  But for some reason, it wasn’t available for Japanese users.  I tried with my iPad and it worked!  I was trying to go to sleep but I could hear him yelling from his room.  He woke me up a couple times, then everything went silent.  I hope Japan won!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide