Getting an out of season south swell in December is a treat. Can’t complain about anything. The waves were perfect, the conditions were perfect, BUT, there were some big logs in the lineup. Hitting this would be bad. John navigating around this one.
This wave Barak was on totally barreled. Usually he would pull into the barrel and make it but he knew better. Why take a chance of a big log landing on your head? Smart surfing.
Dean on a clean steep wave. There still should be some swell tomorrow and the good thing is that every surf spot on the island will be good. Chose properly.