good evening. i paddled out at 6:40am. the waves were 3′. i took out my 7’0 because i knew it was on the rise. by 8:30am, there was a second reef freak 10′ set. the waves came up so fast and i could feel the energy of the ocean. the waves were as powerful as it gets and really dangerous. i took off on a pretty good size set and pulled into a pipeline barrel. it closed out and crushed me down into the reef. luckily my foot hit first so i could break the impact. i got held down pretty long and was trying to fight my way back up but couldn’t. so many thing were rushing through my mind. things like hitting my head and dying. yeah, it happens all the time and has been happening a lot recently. anyway, luckily i made my way back to the surface before the next set hit me. i grabbed my board but something felt wrong. it felt and looked like a truck ran it over. it hit the reef so hard that it almost exploded…. i came in, said thank you to god, and wasn’t going to paddle back out. i have spare boards in my car but today was one of those days that somebody was telling me to slow down. so i slowed down and took photos after that. check them out….
here’s hayato maki hooking with photographer kamio at off the wall…
want to know how perfect backdoor was? take a look at this photo. it doesn’t get any better than this..
rockdance owner hiromichi soeda got the best wave at off the wall today. he paddled out on his 7’4 tokoro and picked one of the biggest sets of the morning. legend surfer…
this is what pipe looks like from backdoor. heavy!! mike stewart getting ready to pull in. gallery up soon on GO-NAMINORI.COM….
and here is my poor new 7’0 surfboard. i was pretty bummed out but once again, i’m glad it wasn’t me. if it was, i’d be dead… more on my poor board later. for now, i’m going to sleep. tomorrow should be another good day of waves out here on the north shore… good night….
