Wow, this morning surprised me again. Perfect waves again! That’s 9 days in a row of this back to back south swell. Barak looking happy on this one. 
Back to yesterday. The marathon just started so every single beach access was blocked. You had to get creative if you wanted to surf. I had to cross the marathon with my surfboard in one arm zigzagging the whole way. 
As I approached Bowls, I saw Clarence, Kyle, Gary, and John. Some of them showing up at 2am just so they would get in the parking lot before it was closed. I couldn’t believe how good the conditions were. 
I like the winter months better than the summer months because the conditions will never get like this in the summer. Only the winter time it gets this glassy! 
We were all taking turns having the best session of our lives. I felt like I was on a surf trip or something. John on a beauty. 
Lots of unridden barrels again. Gosh, a goofy footer could have stood in those perfect barrels.
Summer will always have trade winds and winter is when the trade winds back off and become like this. This is any surfers dream.
I told this girl that I spend thousands of dollars and travel half way around the world to have surf sessions like this. This sessions are what I live for. 
They opened the roads up at 8:30am and everybody started to come out. I didn’t want to ruin that dream session so I went in while we were ahead. Super content day as I decided to surf another session at a secret spot that breaks only a few days out of the year. And this was one of those days! Double score day!
