The Winter Run Done

24

Well, the swell is gone and the strong trade winds are back.  That 11 day run of waves will go down in everyones memory.  Will there be another winter run on the South shore?  All we can do is hope so.

It might be a while until we see sets like this at Bowls.  But when it comes, we will be out there for sure.  

Going on a surf trip with Kimura-san is fun.  He’s pretty brave and likes to challenge himself.  It makes me worry, but somehow he survives.  

I was ordered to get my flu shot.  Shots are something I don’t like.  I’d rather take off on a 20′ wave then get a needle poked into my body.  

When this girl was a little baby, I use to hold her down when the doctor gave her shots.  She would scream so loud and try to fight it off.  

Now, it’s the opposite.  I’m the one screaming and yelling as she’s telling me to keep calm and breathe.  Haha.

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide