Notification from Santa Claus!

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I got a notification on my phone from Santa Claus last night.  He said “come now to the airport as my reindeers just dropped off your Christmas presents!”  I was already in bed half asleep but when I saw that message, I jumped in my car in my pajamas and headed to meet Santa.  

OMG, I must have been a good boy this year because I opened the box and saw 4 freshly custom made surfboards.  OMG!  

I’m going to wax these up and now I’m ready for everything.  Can’t wait to ride these beautiful surfboards.  Thank you Santa!  

Drove by Diamond Head this afternoon and it looked super fun!  Long rides for everyone.  Merry Christmas!

Eddie Aikau update:  The waves are supposed to get huge tomorrow.  Maybe even too big for the contest?  It will grow fast and possibly be the biggest swell in decades.  I just checked the buoy and as of 6pm, the swell isn’t showing yet.  But it’s out there and hopefully it arrives in time for the Eddie Contest tomorrow morning.  They are expecting 50,000 people at Waimea Bay.  Crazy!!!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide