I left my house way too early this morning. I got to Haleiwa in the pitch dark and was the first one there. I had to wait a little while until I could see where I was walking. Paddling out in the dark and scoring an epic Christmas Eve session! The waves were so good!!!
Then came back to town and met up with the boys. Nakagami-san back in Hawaii surfing better than ever.
Nakagami-san and Ken-san are two cool surfers! We had a great time in the beautiful ocean.
I thought the waves were going to be super small but there were some really good waves this afternoon. Probably the best it’s been all week.
I get asked all the time what wetsuit is best for now. For this morning on the North shore, I didn’t need a wetsuit because it was pretty warm and too much paddling fighting the Haleiwa current. For this afternoon, I used my 1mm Dove long sleeve top. Perfect to protect me from the sun. Going into late January and February, you’ll probably need a 2mm top for the cool North wind mornings.
Hope you guys in Japan are having a Merry Christmas! Hawaii’s starts tomorrow!
