I woke up at 3am and knew there would be waves somewhere. I checked Diamond Head in the dark, looked at the conditions and swell direction, and decided to head to the East side.
Got there right in time for the golden sunrise. Orange sun this morning because of the volcano erupting. It was so beautiful!
Nobody was out and the sets just started pumping. OMG, head high perfect waves with nobody out!!! Another dream session!
It was just us taking turns wave after wave. We surfed super long because none of us wanted to go in. It was that good.
Clean water, warm, and just a beautiful morning.
I jumped back on my shortboard and was having so much fun. I felt alive!
I was super tired and heading home. Then I noticed the winds were still good so it was straight back out for Round 2. This time on Mayuki.
OMG, long rights and only 1 other guy at the peak. Today was my best surf day in a while. Surfing perfect waves with practically nobody around. I love winter in Hawaii!
