Nakahodo Would Go!

30

Today was really tricky to find the right surf spot.  We arrived in the dark at Diamond Head to check what the ocean was doing.  Looked too small for the South shore and the North shore was supposed to be big.  So we decided to go North for some big wave action.

As we arrived, the waves looked a lot bigger than I thought.  The buoy readings were high so the waves were only going to get bigger.  Throughout the years, we’ve been practicing and practicing for a day like this.  I don’t think Nakahodo-san knew that we were going to surf Waimea Bay today.  But I teach everyone to be ready for anything at anytime.  And today was that time!  

Paddling out and greeted by a nice rainbow.  Absolutely nobody else out so it was just us and the turtles.  

I was really proud of Nakahodo-san today.  I didn’t know he was going to catch so many waves.  It was pretty big and very very powerful.  But he was super calm and caught some really nice waves.  

Big smiles and a newborn big wave surfer.

It’s been a while surfing such powerful waves so taking off was so exciting!  I had a 7’4 and it still felt kind of short.  

Decided to take the scenic route back to town.  Passing by beautiful power spots and enjoying the nature.  

The East side of the island is so beautiful.  I hope it stays like this forever.  

Ate lunch at my favorite Chinese restaurant near my house.  Roast duck, char siu, and ginger chicken plate.  It was delicious and I will be going there again very soon!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide