Sunburnt and Sleepy

18

Round 1:  I was thinking the waves were going to be very bad this morning because of the forecasted strong South/West winds.  BUT, the winds were more from the South so the waves were super fun.  Perfect for Kamo-san’s first surfing experience in Hawaii!

A very athletic and super positive guy.  Enjoying each and every ride.

First time surfing in Hawaii and smiling the whole way.  This is what surfing is all about.

Round 2:  It was Ooki-san’s third time surfing together and it was a pleasure to see him getting better and better each time.  Cool and calm surfing.

The waves were so fun today.  Nobody out and good chest high waves if you could find them.  Ooki-san missed this wave so I rode by and said “thank you!”

Super warm and protected from the sun.  These 1mm Dove wetsuits are the best for Hawaii.

From the beach, the waves looked terrible.  From the water, it looked super fun.  And once you’re on one, it was the best feeling to be surfing at Bowls with nobody around.  Nice rides today guys!

Round 3:  A different secret spot session and we scored again.  Nakahodo-san is a very lucky surfer because we surfed so many spots since he got here.  All so good!  Sorry no photos from secret spots anymore….

Sunburnt and sleepy.  Goodnight.

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide