Surf Gamble: Win or Lose

13

With the winds switching back around, we started off the day looking at Diamond Head.  After I observe the ocean and see the tide, swell direction, and conditions, it takes me 1 minute to decide where the best spot will be.  Sometimes it will be right there, and most other times it will be somewhere else.  

The normal spots in town don’t work well with the West swell that is wrapping around from the North shore.  Everywhere is just weird.  There are only about 4 spots on the South Shore that like this kind of swell.  One of them is only accessible by boat so that’s where we went.  

Round 1:  It was Nakahodo-san’s first time here at this secret spot and he absolutely loved it!  Nobody was out and nobody comes out as this spot is only good a few days out of the year.  And today was one of those few days.  The conditions were as good as it could ever get.  

On the way back to the harbor we checked Bowls and it was pretty crowded.  It didn’t look too appealing.  

Round 2:  We went to check Diamond Head this afternoon and as soon as I saw the West swell getting bigger, I knew exactly where to go.  We got there 50 minutes later and nobody was out.  Overhead and perfect!  

Another day of 2 excellent rounds.  This was my 16th session of the year so far and it was like the others, amazing!  Tomorrow is another day of taking chances, gambling, and hopefully winning the lottery!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide