Surf Bonus?

13

When I woke up at 3am, it was cloudy, windy, and raining hard.  Then things started clearing up and by mid morning, the weather was back to paradise.

We paddled out extra early this morning because we already knew where we were going to surf, and we already knew that the waves will still be good.

And yes, it was good again!  Nakahodo-san is a very lucky surfer so far this year.  15 sessions at 11 different surf spots on Oahu.  That could be a world record?  Haha.

When the winds got calm and the sky turned blue, the waves were as perfect as can be.  Nice turn!

We caught the first 2 waves and when I looked back at the 3rd wave, Rocky was out there alone and got it!  It was just last year when she was terrified about this spot, but now she loves it.

After our morning session, we looked at Kaisers and saw that nobody was out?  OMG, nobody was out!  We went out, Nakahodo-san waited at the main peak, and he caught this beautiful left.  This was the first time I surfed Kaisers with nobody out.  Crazy lucky!

When you’re lucky, you’re lucky.  Not sure where we’re going to surf tomorrow but we’re pretty content.  Everything after this is just a bonus.  Have a good night!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide