Keeping an Eye on the Ocean

14

Checked Diamond Head in the dark and decided where to go.  Jumped back in the car for a 40 minute drive to the East side.  Good wind, good swell direction, and good decision.  The girls had the surf spot all to themselves!

I was watching these guys attempt to go free diving in some very rough conditions.  I could tell it was their first time here because they  looked confused.  On their first attempt, a big wave came and swept one of the guys off the rocks.  He ended up losing his mask and fins.  Then the other guy made an attempt and I knew something bad was going to happen again.  Why?  I just knew because when they were approaching the ocean, they weren’t looking out at the ocean.  I saw a wave coming and this guy was too preoccupied putting his fins on.

Then the wave came which he didn’t expect.  The ocean will win if you’re not prepared.  The wave knocked him off the rocks and he fell back.  I was watching and just making sure he didn’t get hurt.

Never look away from the ocean.  The 2 guys are lucky they didn’t get hurt.  I was telling the girls to watch these guys mistakes so they don’t make the same.  People die and people go missing on days like today.  There are no people or no lifeguards at this beach so I made sure they were ok before we went surfing.

On the way in, I noticed some opihi’s so I grabbed enough for dinner.  And yes, if you don’t know, picking opihi is very dangerous and this is how most fishermen in Hawaii die.  So always keep an eye on the ocean, and always be vigilant.  Today was the most important lesson for the girls.  Especially after one of them fell off the rocks this morning too.  And the other one fell off the rocks last week.  BUT, that’s how you learn.

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide