Early morning session at Bowls. Lots of rain yesterday so the water was brown. 
Mito-san scored Bowls all to himself. He asked my when nobody was out so I said it’s because the water is dirty. He said “um, the water in Chiba and Japan is more dirty.” I told him, yes I agree. 
If this were Japan, there would be 100 guys out. The conditions were nice and it’s wonderful to have a premier spot like this all to ourselves. 
A brand new passport, first time in Hawaii, first surf in Hawaii, and a great experience. 
Totally smooth conditions and my 7’0 Tokoro was working super good!
While we were surfing at Bowls, the girls paddled a couple spots towards cleaner water and had it to themselves. I could hear them giggling and giggling riding wave after wave. It was so fun that they didn’t even want to come in. This is hardcore surfing!
