Last night before I went to sleep, I checked the swell direction and wind direction. There was a 3-5′ NorthNorth/West swell with SouthSouth/West winds. I already knew where we were going this morning. It’s a secret spot where Todd Mitsui, Mike Woo, and I use to surf back in the 1990’s. It breaks once a year and when it does, it’s like a dream wave. As soon as we pulled up to the beach, I saw the most perfect wave break right in front of us. Yes, this is a dream wave!
We waxed up our boards and paddled out to an empty spot. Nobody was there when we went out, nobody paddled out, and nobody was there when we left. This is a very special wave that breaks only on special days like today. I felt like I went on another surf trip. Riding thick barreling waves with perfect offshore conditions. 
Mighty Mouse caught some really good waves today. She had no idea how shallow it was, which was good. It kept her calm while we were out there. But when we got back safely to the beach, she said “omg, I’m glad I’m still alive!!!” Haha. 
When we came back to town, it was storming, lightning, thunder, and falling trees everywhere. 
This happened right near my house. I’m glad nobody was on that sidewalk.
Crazy winter weather will continue. Big North swell with West winds? I know exactly where we’re going tomorrow. Hope we score again!
