Zero Expectations

30

When I got up this morning, I didn’t really check the waves because I thought it would be small.  So showing up to the beach and seeing perfect chest high sets was a treat.  This is the magic of the South shore!  Suzuki-san’s first time surfing Bowls and he loved it!  

After surfing the North shore the past 2 days, today felt like I went back to preschool.  It was so soft, fun, and playful!  

Suzuki-san was saying over and over how happy he was.  I told him the only reason nobody was out was because nobody knew where would be waves today.  Yesterday was flat and today was a surprise South swell.  Just a couple of locals enjoying the beautiful morning.

It’s so cool to see Kelia teaching her son how to surf.  This is how it all starts here in Hawaii.

Kelia teaching Honouliwai how to duck dive.  From this little calm salt water pool to maybe the peak at Pipeline someday.  I can’t wait!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide