Big Wave Dodgeball

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After surfing the outside at Waimea Bay, we came more to the inside to catch a few waves.  I told Roy this is a game of dodgeball.  We wait in the inside but when the big sets start to break on the outside, we paddle our fastest to the channel to get away.  It was pretty fun dodging those big waves.  But when the inside waves came, it was so beautiful!  

And you can actually do big turns.  I’m still impressed by Roy’s surfing level and how he easily connected to that magical wave.

When you paddle for a wave, you better catch it.  Why?  Because if you miss it, there could be a bigger one behind.  And that bigger one will smash you.  So as you can see, I’m paddling my hardest and I wasn’t going to miss it no matter what!  Haha.  

The inside waves were half the size of the outside waves.  This inside one is way overhead so imagine how big the outside sets were.  My 7’4 was feeling small.

It was a fun and magical day.  Now I want to surf a much bigger wave!  Anyone want to go with me on the next swell?  

The amount of water moving in the bay is crazy.  You can be paddling your fastest forward but the surge will make you go backwards.  You can feel the power and it’s something you truly respect.  This spot is for advanced/experts only.

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide