I started off this beautiful day off by surfing a secret spot that was really good. Right after I came in, I got a message that Mateus’s game is going to start soon. Perfect! I got to the field right in time. Look at Mateus getting ready to bat!
Mateus plays in right field, just like Ichiro Suzuki! Go-Mateus!!!
I remember being so happy to see a family member come to the game and watch me play. It’s a feeling I still have a hard time describing. So yes, I got a little emotional thinking about when my Grandpa use to come to see me. Family support is priceless.
I finally found the video of one of my worst wipeouts at Backdoor last week. This is not a place where you want to be. I’m not sure how my body survived this because it was the lowest tide and at the most critical part of the wave. Yes I hit the reef, but thankfully not head first. I’ll explain to you later how this happened.
