Here is the second shot of the sequence. I’m paddling my hardest, I see the traffic, and I decide in that split second to go for it. John John Florence is still on the right of me watching to see if this old man actually goes. Haha. The 4 surfers in front of me are still there as 2 of them started their duck dive. I’m trying to keep calm, but at the same time, I know this is risky because of the traffic.
Here I’m taking off and it looks perfect for now. I’m popping up at the perfect time. This is when John John pulls back as you can see on the left side of this photo. I knew the angle I needed to take to get right under the barrel. Yes, no time and no space for a bottom turn on this one. It’s just take off, pull in, and hope for the best!
The next shot is when everything starts to go wrong. Coming soon.
