Backdoor: Ride or Die Part 4

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Like I said in my last post, this is where things started to go wrong.  I had the perfect angle to what could possible be the best Backdoor barrel of my life.  Look at all that disturbance from the 4 guys that were in my way!  

Right here is when I felt something weird right beneath my fins.  The bodyboarder that duck dove right under me created a slight turbulence that caused air to disrupt the fins that were keeping me in line.  I felt an air pocket that made the tail of my surfboard slightly lift.  Then instead of going on the right path, my board started to slide sidewards.

Right here I tried to regain control.  I kept calm and hoped for the best.  This is when time stands still because there are only 2 outcomes.  One is to have the best barrel of your life.  The other being to have the worst wipeout of your life.  One will give you glory, the other will make you humble.  A cut on my leg, a bruised rib, and a very humbling experience followed…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide