So here it is. The final chapter of a wave that could have been the best wave of my life, or a wave that could have killed me. Shortly after this, I got slammed right into the reef, bruised a rib, then my leg got stuck in a crack, and almost broke it. So you can say I was lucky to survive with minor injuries. I actually didn’t feel any pain until I got home because my adrenaline was sky high. I was stoked, yet humbled. One part of me thought I was too old, and another part of me said “one more!” So the next day, I went again, and the next day after that, I went again. The adrenaline of paddling to to waves of consequences like this in the dark is addicting. I’ll definitely be out there again! 
I will always wonder how crazy good that barrel would have felt if I made that wave. The only way that will go away is to actually get a better one. So yes, I’ll keep searching for a better one!
