It’s been over three decades of chartering boats, chasing waves, and exploring the world. Tokura-san took me on my first boat trip back in 1993 to Indonesia. Ever since then, I’ve been hooked on searching for the perfect wave. Whether it’s in Hawaii or deep in Indonesia, it’s all fun. So this was just another day of us surfers going with the flow and looking for waves. 
When you come across a lineup with nobody out, it gets our hearts pumping fast. Only a surfer knows the feeling. 
Surfing a spot all to ourselves is a rewarding. Sometimes you have to be lucky, and sometimes you have to know where to go. 
I just bought a cast iron pan to fry meat. It’s my first time trying it so I was excited. It’s cool how the meat cooks differently. 
Just like restaurant quality or even better. I like my meat medium rare just like this.
Next was the lamb. OMG, I’ll never eat lamb at a restaurant ever again because this turned out to be much better. 
I just started another project. So instead of taking a mid-day 1 hour nap, I’m going to spend that 1 hour on this new project. 
I’m going to start by taking all the pieces off. I’ve been wanting to do this for a very long time.
