Mad Surfer Scientist

15

We did 2 rounds at Diamond Head today.  The morning was challenging because of the onshore winds but these are the days you learn the most.  Afternoon was even bigger and better.  I had one of my best sessions ever at Diamond Head.  Solid overhead and so good!

Mighty Mouse’s fresh sashimi creation.  Look so good!

Surfing Legends:  Yasu-san and Tokura-san sharing the moment at Bowls.

Came home right in time to watch Seth’s heat at Bells.  I was screaming!!!

I’ve been waiting all year for Seth to have a good heat.  He was surfing so good that you could hear cheering from my neighbors too!

I’ve been spending so much time and energy fixing my boat.  When things go wrong, I want to troubleshoot and fix it myself because that’s the best way.  One day it might break in the middle of the sea and I will have to figure it out.  So yes, I don’t call a mechanic anymore.  It might take time, but I will figure it out.  A lot is common sense, and a lot is science.  I flunked my science classes in High School but now I’m more focused on science than ever.  I can’t afford to fail.

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide