Man vs. Nature: Nature wins again…

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The waves were very hard today but Nakagami-san caught a few good ones.  Always good to see him so stoked on surfing.

I always tell people not to paddle straight back out after a wave and this is why.  Nakagami-san is taking off on a very nice wave and the lady on her longboard in front was right in his way.  Thankfully there was no crash.  But sometimes there is.

Another canoe tried to play with nature and take a shortcut back to the harbor.  I saw it coming in way too close to the surfers and I was telling my friend, “another accident is about to happen.”  Then a big wave at Bowls flipped over the canoe and everybody went flying.  It was a very dangerous situation and thankfully nobody got hurt.  

A few of the canoe paddlers were in total panic mode.  You could see the fear in their faces.  Another classic example of inexperienced canoe paddlers taking chances.  If this happened yesterday when all the kids were out, someone could have died.  Anyway thank you to the surfers who helped out.

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide