A person could be having the worst day of his life but once you put on a mask and dive under the ocean surface, everything goes away. I think free diving is the ultimate way to peace. I would probably be a wreck without it. 
It’s pretty amazing how the weather can change so fast in Hawaii. Just look up all day and you will see the changes happening. 
I think the cutback is the most important maneuver in surfing. The mechanics of doing it is very simple and once you can do one, everything else is easy. 
It’s all about pushing hard on your back foot. The harder you push, the faster you will go and the cooler you will look.
Going straight is also beautiful if you’re super calm like this. Calmness is coolness. 
The reason I bought an E-Bike a while ago was to practice wheeling. I tried it a few times and almost flipped over. One crash on a dirt bike and you won’t be surfing for a while. That’s why I sold my bike soon after.
