PADDLE AROUND: Man vs. Oshiri

16

I saw Ronnie paddling for a set.  He’s in the perfect take off zone.  I was thinking it was going to be an amazing ride!  

As I was watching, I saw a young surfer girl making a big mistake.  She was trying to paddle to the shoulder to get out of Ronnie’s way.  BUT, she should have actually paddled the opposite way to get out of his way.  

Then she took her time duck diving under the wave.  Sticking her ass up too long.  She should have duck dove and brought her ass down faster so it wouldn’t get in the way.  

See Ronnie?  See the ass?  A lot of inexperienced surfers will run that ass over with all 3 fins.  But Ronnie is experienced and knows it’s not worth the risk.  So he starts to straighten out his surfboard, thus giving up on that perfect wave.

And because of that, he missed the most epic barrel!  I see this all the time and I wish someone would teach people what to do in situations like this.  It’s just a matter of time until someone gets hurt.  PADDLE AROUND!!!!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide