Behind the Ass Shot

13

Thanks Neal for sending me the shot.  Yeah, this one was a lucky one from behind.  As soon as I saw Ray paddling for this wave, I knew it was going to be a good one so I took off behind him and followed him.  

Ray didn’t know I was behind him so I was trying to get as close as possible.  

Then the waves started to get steep again and his eyes were looking right at the barrel coming up.  

So I speed up and try to get a little more in front of the wave so I can see the barrel.  

This is the perfect view from behind.  Watching your friend ride one of the best waves of the day.  This view doesn’t get any better.

Gosh, I was so close behind that I felt like I was in the barrel with Ray.  This is freaking beautiful!  

This is where I have to make a split decision.  Do I keep on following Ray and get the complete sequence?  OR, do I start to turn away so his surfboard doesn’t hit me in the face if he falls?  I listened to my natural instinct and turned away at the last minute.  It turned out to be the right decision.

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide