Thanks Neal for sending me the shot. Yeah, this one was a lucky one from behind. As soon as I saw Ray paddling for this wave, I knew it was going to be a good one so I took off behind him and followed him.
Ray didn’t know I was behind him so I was trying to get as close as possible.
Then the waves started to get steep again and his eyes were looking right at the barrel coming up.
So I speed up and try to get a little more in front of the wave so I can see the barrel.
This is the perfect view from behind. Watching your friend ride one of the best waves of the day. This view doesn’t get any better.
Gosh, I was so close behind that I felt like I was in the barrel with Ray. This is freaking beautiful!
This is where I have to make a split decision. Do I keep on following Ray and get the complete sequence? OR, do I start to turn away so his surfboard doesn’t hit me in the face if he falls? I listened to my natural instinct and turned away at the last minute. It turned out to be the right decision.