Keiki Hawai’i Pono’i

19

The ocean was very calm this morning.  Waist high sets and perfect conditions.  Not too many people either.

I forgot how fun foiling was!  It’s been a very long time so my first wave was a little nerve-racking.  But once I got on flight, it felt familiar.  A waist high wave like this feels like an overhead set.  Flying fast, holding on, and trying to stay calm.

I pumped into 10 waves and my session was over in 20 minutes.  The best workout, the best feeling, and the best sport I’ve ever learned.  I’ll be foiling a lot more from now.

My grand-nephew was graduating from an all Hawaiian pre-school so they sang and spoke the native Hawaiian language.  I had chicken skin listening to that.  Then they sang Hawai’l Pono’i.  OMG, that was amazing!

Congratulations Keahi on your first graduation and many more to come.  Uncle loves you!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide