Superman Baby Surfer

15

When the waves on the South shore are small, I just drive 40 minutes to the East and there will always be a head high wave.  Sometimes a very challenging wave, and sometimes a very perfect wave.  The only problem about this spot is that it’s very dangerous.  I think that’s why nobody surfs here?

Almost every wave will let you do a simple carve like this.  So you can do it over and over and it becomes muscle memory.  Then when you go surf a clean wave like Bowls, it becomes automatic.    

After doing my daily workout at home, it didn’t feel like it was enough.  I wanted to push a little harder so I went to the gym.  Gosh, the weights seem to be getting a lot heavier than before.  Haha.

All the Moniz kids were over last night so it was a good time to get one of Seth’s old boards out of my closet.  Seth rode this “superman” surfboard when he was 11 years old.  I kept it all these years because I knew one of the next generation would be so proud to ride it.  

This is the next generation.  Dream big kid!  Just like Uncle Seth, you can do it!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide