When the waves on the South shore are small, I just drive 40 minutes to the East and there will always be a head high wave. Sometimes a very challenging wave, and sometimes a very perfect wave. The only problem about this spot is that it’s very dangerous. I think that’s why nobody surfs here?
Almost every wave will let you do a simple carve like this. So you can do it over and over and it becomes muscle memory. Then when you go surf a clean wave like Bowls, it becomes automatic.
After doing my daily workout at home, it didn’t feel like it was enough. I wanted to push a little harder so I went to the gym. Gosh, the weights seem to be getting a lot heavier than before. Haha.
All the Moniz kids were over last night so it was a good time to get one of Seth’s old boards out of my closet. Seth rode this “superman” surfboard when he was 11 years old. I kept it all these years because I knew one of the next generation would be so proud to ride it.
This is the next generation. Dream big kid! Just like Uncle Seth, you can do it!