False Swell Alarm

13

Once again, the surf forecast got it WRONG.  We were supposed to have a new South swell the past 2 days in the 3-5′ range.  Nothing showed up.  Well, every surfer on the South shore showed up because there was no parking, lots of surfers, and little waves.  All you could hear in the water was “where is the swell?  When is it coming?”  Haha.

Once again, the South swells are very unpredictable and very hard to forecast.  There are just too many variables and too much distance from where the swell originates.  So that’s why nobody gets it right and even with all the technology we have now, they still can’t get it right.  So please don’t ask me when the next South swell is coming because if I’d be lying if I told you when.  In the meantime, just enjoy what we have because it always can be worst.

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide